Gary Walsh reviews Ruggabellus latest releases on The Wine Front
posted on 1 July 2012
Only 912 bottles of this little beauty. Shiraz 68%, Mataro 20%, Grenache 14% with 24% whole bunch. Variations on a theme with Ruggabellus.
Choc-licorice, plenty of ground spices (cloves, cinnamon, cardamon etc.) and perfume like rose oil – exotica and harem intrigue – dark berries and modest stalky influence. It’s perhaps the most ‘traditional’ of the four 2012 releases – though still a little left of centre for the Barossa. Medium bodied with a mass of supple powder fine Turkish coffee tannin, fresh, but unobtrusive orange juice acidity, combining ample fruit weight with firm structure – the composition and balance perfectly pitched. Indian spice and dark chocolate flavours come through on the long dry finish. Well, it’s a really good wine I think.
Rated : 95 Points
Tasted : Jun12
Alcohol : 14%
Price : $40
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2014 – 2025+
812 bottles produced; an overture for fun with Mataro (54%), Syrah (41%), Grenache (5%) and Cinsault (1%). 26% whole bunches and no children or animals hurt in the production of this wine (I hope).
Indian spices, pepper, blue fruit, raspberry coulis and, refreshingly, bugger all oak influence – aromatic with just a little stalky fragrance. Medium weight, silky almost, but with fine chalk dust tannin grip, tangy acid and plump red fruit with a pleasant garnish of greenery. Slot car like control and shapeliness with great extension through the finish. Some dried herb and stalk on finish, taken as positive by me, while acknowledging that others may not. Unevolved at present, so give it a little time. Charismatic for sure.
Rated : 94 Points
Tasted : Jun12
Alcohol : 13.9%
Price : $40
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2014 – 2020+
I’m not sure what any of the names of these wines mean. They sound Latin, but seeing as I left school at twelve, I missed most of that. And the beatings. I can tell you there’s 1620 bottles bottled containing Grenache 61%, Mataro 24%, Shiraz 11% and Cinsault 4%. 29% whole bunches included. The other two wines (Fluus and Efferus) I had open over two nights, but the Timaeus and Archaeus I’ve just opened tonight. The mailing list is out and people want to know, apparently.
All these Ruggabellus wines are marked by fine aromatics and spice, or so it would seem. No change here then. Mixed spice, raspberry, gentle rosy perfume, chocolate, earth and sweet green smells. It’s just to medium bodied, musky, spice and gently stalky with powder fine chalky tannin, juicy acidity and a dry, almost unexpectedly stern finish of cranberry and stalk. I love its finely balanced non-sweet personality which is almost Pinot-like in its delivery. Time will likely be very kind to it. Touch and go for 94 points.
Rated : 93+ Points
Tasted : Jun12
Alcohol : 13.6%
Price : $40
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2014 – 2020+
Well I’m no fan of most Australian 2011 vintage wines that don’t come from either WA or the Hunter Valley, but there are always exceptions and indeed, wines that are exceptional. In the words of Abel Gibson, bearded Barossa Artisan “The 2011 Fluus is the only wine we made in this vintage, as you well know was a very interesting one all over Australia! It has only 14%whole bunches and received the fruit from our best vineyards.”
Love the packaging on these wines, igniting as they do two of my more minor fetishes (let’s not go into some of the Major ones) – Lord of the Rings style topographical maps and clean, light and easy to manage Bordeaux bottles. And as per the label, direct from Abel, 2388 bottles made from Mataro (58%), Grenache (17%), Cinsault (15%) and Shiraz (10%). Detail in packaging, detail in the wine.
It’s a captivating wine with an engaging personality, its flaws in some respects, make it more handsome and interesting – the gap toothed smile is a winning one. There’s no question, however, that it’s delicious and easy to drink – the vinous equivalent of slipping on a well loved, well used old gym T-Shirt. Laden with spice – pepper, red capsicum, cumin and fenugreek, stalk too, but with clean and pure red fruit. Air time reveals further raspberried richness and flickers of licorice. It’s just to medium weight, clean and earthy at once, with unforced acicidy, light fine powdery tannin and a gently stalky firm, but long, finish. If its intent is an easy drinking bistro wine then it’s a great success. But there’s also dimension and detail here too – the best of both worlds. As a drink, probably my favourite of the 2012 Ruggabellus releases.
Rated : 92 Points
Tasted : Jun12
Alcohol : 13.6%
Price : $25
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2012 – 2017+