Mike Bennie reviews Ruggabellus latest releases on www.winefront.com.au

posted on 11 September 2019

Ruggabellus Timaeus 2018

I was very fortunate to attend a complete Ruggabellus red wine retrospective recently and will post the whole tasting as an article soon. Amazing results, beyond my expectation for longevity of these wines. Anyway. Stay tuned.

This is 90% grenache and 10% cinsault which is a slight departure from the syrah and mourvedre components that have been in the mix. “I was seeking purity from grenache”, says vigneron Abel Gibson, “but seeking concentration without too much weight”. No 2017 vintage Timaeus was produced, “it was green and boozy”.

Floral notes, rose hip tea, some cranberry and cherry notes too. There’s an elemental character, earthy but sweet, some undergrowth and a touch of game meat. Spreads beautifully in the palate, a sheen of silty tannin, supple in texture,slightly gummy, long and finishes with spice and tang of acidity. It’s really beautiful.

Rated : 94 Points
Tasted : SEP19
Alcohol : 12.8%
Price : $50
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2019 – 2030

Ruggabellus Efferus 2018

Mataro focus. Portions of fruit from around Barossa. Harmonised. “I love the wild, on-the-edge feel. Earthy too. I love earthy wines. It’s never fruity for me. It’s got substance, always”, says a thoughtful Abe Gibson, Ruggabellus’ winemaker and co-owner.

Sappy, savoury red of depth of flavour but freshness, sour-sweet fruits, nutty notes, blood and iron filing tannins in the mix. Guttural fruit profile, grunty but sits on rails of fresh acidity and a weave of tannin. Tension here too. It’s a scruffy but very charismatic red. So much pleasure and interest. Benchmark stuff.

Rated : 95 Points
Tasted : SEP19
Alcohol : 13.7%
Price : $50
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2019 – 2030

Ruggabellus Archaeus 2018

Syrah through and through here. From the home block. The one that sits right out the back door of the Ruggabellus homestead, sitting ancient, sentient and strong amongst long grass, flowers and thatches of quartz. A magnificent site at elevation in Eden Valley in the parish of Flaxman’s Valley.

Outrageously good wine. So pure. Levity and freshness. That almost rose water scent meets some cherry and stone fruit characters, unusual and oh so pretty, and there’s a layering of herb, faint earthiness and undergrowth. The palate is incredible – that’s where the magic is. Silky, tightly wound, nervous, but still gives you drinkability, exceptional length, the finest swish of tannins. My word.

Rated : 96+ Points
Tasted : SEP19
Alcohol : 13%
Price : $65
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2019 – 2035+

Ruggabellus Fluus 2018

Cinsault, mataro, grenache, less syrah. Possibly one of the most sincerely thought about ‘entry level wines’ on the planet. Set your guns to stun.

Fragrant wine, pretty and floral, red currants and raspberries. Palate has crunch and freshness, big tang of acidity, some ferrous notes, vermouth-like acidity. Brisk and fresh. Frisky. Lovely summery red. Simple done so so well. This should be on high rotation, if you can get some.

Rated : 92 Points
Tasted : SEP19
Alcohol : 12.7%
Price : $29
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2019 – 2024

Ruggabellus Sallio 2017

Arguably one of Australia’s most important white wines. Yep. The landmark skin-fermented wine is (a) affordable, per se and (b) seriously constructed under that affordability banner. It’s a landmark orange wine in Australia for its patient, considered winemaking and release. And we are so damn lucky for it. Semillon dominant with muscat and riesling.

Orange and marmalade, curry powder, whiffs of candied citrus, apple-y. My oh my does that bouquet appeal. Palate is chewy, chalky, tight and refreshing but shows depth too. Bergamot tea is strong in this wine too. Wild edged and delicious. Complex, energetic, generally just darn delicious. So much to think on but so much just to guzzle and enjoy. Compelling wine. Again.

Rated : 94 Points
Tasted : SEP19
Alcohol : 12.7%
Price : $30
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2019 – 2030

Ruggabellus Quomodo 2017

All riesling. So much acid and flavour. I usually write effusive entries on the Ruggabellus wines but this year its straight to business. This is awesome.

Powerful orange wine of conviction and deliciousness. Incredibly intense, qiote transparent. Lemon and orangey character. Mandarin too. Juicy and bright, light chalky tannins. Huge thrust of flavour across the palate. Incredibly bright. So much going on here and so much life left. Well, well, well – what a ballistically good wine. One of the most compelling Australian orange wines of all time.

Rated : 95 Points
Tasted : SEP19
Alcohol : 12%
Price : $48
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2019 – 2030

Ruggabellus Solumodo 2017

Semillon, mostly. Skin-fermented, mostly. One of Australia’s most compelling and serious orange wines. Set the carnival fun juice aside and step into the rarified air. Wow.

Chalky, strong orange wine of intensity and yet decidedly fresh. Mixed citrus, green apple, juicy then very tight and lean to finish, but the length is incredible as is intensity and drive. Chalky-powdery tannins, bright, crystalline acidity. Just bloody awesome wine. Ginger lemon twist to close. Superb.

Rated : 95+ Points
Tasted : SEP19
Alcohol : 12.7%
Price : $48
Closure : Screwcap
Drink : 2019 – 2030+